Tuesday, March 2, 2010

The 15001th km ride

Thats what i did for the length of the Holi weekend ride with gf (now fiancee officially, congrats to me). Had been fidgeting with itineries, plans, places but with the long weekend rush, lack of a place to stay was playing spoilsport.

Our previous best was the 280 kms backs from Panchgani and the last part of that ride was hell for her. So Panchgani was ruled as much for the distance as for the lack of affordable stay options. Konkan has been a tradionally dependable destination in times of tryst. And so it turned out that the route to Dapoli through Mandangad was shorter and totalled around 220 odd KMs. The last time I was on my solo to Konkan, I had avoided this route given that my back had already recieved a solid kick from the Konkan internal roads. But this time some googling and phoning around assured me the route was good to do.Our second best was around 180 kms, thus some coaxing and a brand new and more comfortable seat (some more foam and a rexin cover over the first one) helped me sign the deal.

So on Saturday (27th Feb) early morning, the both of us set out in the dark to explore the Dapoli Taluka and its beaches and temples. First break at Panvel for a cup of tea and we set on to the NH17. The bike's service this time round was not fully satisfactory and the tuning was wrong. While in the city, it did not make much of a difference, on the NH17 it did. Overtaking was becoming more challenging, specially the boleros and the scorpios of the world. and speeds of 104-5 kms made the bike shudder. However, soon I adjusted the ride to a 90 kph cruise mode and cruised along till Nagothane for a breakfast of Misal and Tomato Utthapa at Hotel Ruchi. Dawn had just broken and the morning sun and a cool breeze welcomed us back onto the road.

There were two ways to go to Mandangad from NH17 - one from Goregaon Phata and the other from Veer. Took the first one and some 5 kms into the ride, regretted it. The road was patchy and as it wound up and down the Konkan terrain, pressure on my arms and back mounted. But, all that was easy to ignore given the scenes that unravelled in front of us ravines, lakes, dams...

Just before Mandangad you take a left turn for Dapoli from wher the road was quite good and I could lean to my hearts content along the nice curves. Not before it got all patchy again - the type of patchy where you get roughed up as much at speeds of 30 kph as at 80kph. I followed the later.

Dapoli turned up quite quickly at around 11 AM and from there Murud was a stones throw 9if you could call 10 odd kms that). Checked into the small Hotel Sahil at Murud, freshened up and moved towards the beach. After a first rendevous, we firned up the itinery. We moved towards Anjarle with the intention of catching the FIsh Auction at Harnai first and then seeing the Kadyavarcha Ganapati. The stink of Rawas at the entrance to Harnai proved to strong for me to convince her to go further and so we gave the Harnai bunder a pass and instead moved to Anjarle through the fishing village. Line after line of fish laid out to dry greeted us on the way as we rode past the small thatched roof houses of the fishermen. Sights, sounds and scents of a rural fishing community hit us on the way.

Kadyavarcha Ganapati temple proved quite scenic more for the view of the Arabian sea and the setting sun it offered us that for the actual all white temple. On the way back to Murud, stopped at a Couple of Sunset view points and view it was. I am thinking of taking up Sunset photography as a hobby (once i get my own DSLR) and set out to practice with all kinds of subject (read the lady, the bike,the odd bush) in between the lens and the reddish hues of the setting sun.

Dinner that night was at the Silver Sands resort with everything having prawns as a part and a bottle of Kingfisher.

THe next morning a crowded beach and dangerously overloaded boats led to us scrapping our dolphin watching plans and we got into the sea bathing mode. A good 2 hours later, we were red in the eyes and runny by the nose. Lunch was planned at Dapoli after which we were to proceed to Ladghar. But the afternoon heat burned us down and so after a lunch at Hotel Vrindavan at Dapoli, we came back to base and ventured only after the sun had calmed down at around 4 30. The route to Ladghar was through Dapoli and the roads were good enough.

Tamas Teerth turned out to be a dissapointment with nothing red enough but a little gravel fringing the beach. THe ladghar beach though was extremely serene and devoid of people. And it was there that we bade the sun good bye, caught a local group trying to erect a structure for Holika Dahan and then rode back to base. Some bhelpuri at the Murud beach, a night ride along the beach and dinner aided with fried pomphret later we retired for the night.

Next day morning we took the road from Dapoli towards Khed. The road was as good as it could get and as it wound about the small hills, the R15 danced around the curves and soon we hit the Nh17. The kashedi Ghat welcomes the R15 on its curves and thereon began and embrace that stopped only at Poladpur. The rest of the journey was uneventful except a nice Puri Bhaji breakfast at Kamat's Mahad. We were back to Mumbai and its holi celebrations by lunch time thus ending the 15001th kms sojourn to the so called mahabaleshwar of konkan.

Route taken - Mumbai-Panvel-Pen-Mangaon-Goregaon Phata-Ambet-Mandangad-Dapoli-Murud-Anjarle-Murud-Dapoli-Ladghar-Dapoli-Murud-Dapoli-Khed-Poladpur-Mahad-Mangaon-Pen-Panvel and back to Mumbai.
Total Distance 689 kms

Signing off with the photos

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Weekend trip to Bhandardara

It was long since we two rode out together. After looking for different locations and quarelling over manageable distances, we decided a winter trip to bhandardara would be cool.

So on just another boring Saturday morning, we set out to bring some excitement in our lives. Some breakfast outside Bhiwandi Naka and we were on the freshly laid out 4 lane NH3. There was road construction still going on at places but most of the road was awsome.

As always, crossing Ghoti was painful and so was the road after that to Pimpalgaon. Remember missing the turnoff last time at this place and going ahead further. But this time, we were more careful. Some chai paani and photo graphy breaks later, we were at the last stretch of the painful road to Bhandardara.

The standard room at the MTDC had a nice lake view and justified every bit and double the price paid for it. Post some chicken and roti and loitering and chilling out, rode out to Rhonda falls. It was a trickle in the winters but I am sure it would be a spectacle to watch in the monsoons. Heading back to bhandardara, we went for an arbit boat ride just before the sunset. got some nice captures. That evening had nothing too exciting.. it was just a night far from the amdding crowd, din and bustle.

The next morning, rose up late, had a hearty breakfast and set off for the return journey. Nothing much to write home about except the ride down the Kasara ghat. THe road has been freshly laid out and 3 lane one-way with amazing tarmac, near zero traffic and inviting curves. Did 90kph all along the way down.

Got caught by a MAMA at THane, according to him somebody wearing so much riding gear in Mumbai ought to be suspicious. Loved the look on his face when all my papers turned out to be in order.

Thats it, just a relaxed ride for the weekend. Pics follow (lets try out this picass slideshow thing)

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

1000 kms solo ride - exploring Konkan

It was a long time since i had ridden hard. Serisouly Hard! Or lets say I had never done it at all. I mean 800 kms over three days with the GF in tag was the hardest. Deepak saab would call that kiddy runs. So this time when opportunity (read GF on a personal holiday) and time (read two days weekend 15 and 16th Aug) presented themselves, I hatched a plan.

Yeah plan I did. Unlimited calls to BNers for company went unanswered. A feeling of excitement crept in the mind - Would i be doing this alone? How much can i do alone? How far could i stretch this? Meanwhile the net was swept for maps. Monsoons meant the Konkan would be an enticing options or could be wrong decision. The more I googled, green and unscathed Konkan presented me in all her glory - her bridges, her beaches and her winding roads beckoned me. And to add to that another place reared its head from among the countless of triplogs of fellow bikers - Amba Ghats.

And then the decision was made - Pune-Kolhapur (heard too much of the long straight four laners)-Amba ghat-Ratnagiri and from there on to internal Konkan roads to Mumbai. The idea was to stick to internal roads to soak in as much of raw Konkan as I could.

Day 1

At 4:30 in the morning, trembling with excitement - we set out - me, the yammmie and the crammie. The boring ride to Panvel later I was on the Pune highway cutting through the dark cautiously till I reached Lonavla. As the first light of Independance Day shone on the Western part of the country, I grabbed a warm cuppa.

Just after Lonavla and before Kamshet, stopped for a Photo-Break and to my dismay i discover - cammie (the olympus) was missing its battery. The battery was still on the charger at home which I had so carefully remembered to plug in the socket last nite. The feeling there was of utter dismay, of confusion whether I should head back for batteries, how would the trip come out without the camera. I had the Phone camera of course but then!

Decided against turning back - the road the Kolhapur wasnt that picturesque anyway, would try finding a battery in Kolhapur. Took some snaps around with the phone camera itself and then set out.

The first shot with Phone cam at the point







The Indrayani river outside Lonavla

Riding on, suddenly I discover I am in Pune. Asked around and what do I know, I had missed the turnoff at Dehu road for the bypass to NH4. It was swine flu season at Pune and in that wet morning that was the first thing that struck my mind - Funny huh! Made my way through the city with instructions from a cobbler, a policeman, a chaiwala and a morning jogger. The last one almost reported me to police for the crime that I was headed to Kolhapur alone on my bike.

Crept out of Pune with the feeling that this was a to be a trip of errors - had already lost more than an hour and a half seeking my way around the city. The Katraj ghat was a reward though for the pain - Pune bikers are damn lucky they have one just so near the city.

Fuelled up soon after Pune and then had some breakfast sometime later... the road and the bike embraced in a warm hug @ 130 kph ... there were times even i was getting worried about this love story between the two... not much action though.. just plain straight roads... except for the part in between on the Khambatki ghats which unluckily was full of traffic on the way up... sped my way down and then continued the sojourn...













Took a break somewhere after the turn off to mahabaleshwar... was tempted to ride that way but then i had greater conquests in mind... the best part was the bike was behaving really good... no vibrations at high speeds i mean.











From ther on it was non stop to this bridge on the river koyna.. this locale seemed an ideal place for a smoke and some reality check... Not much to check tho.. was on time, it wasnt even lunch time and i was nearing kolhapur, i could look around kolhapur for some camera batteries, have lunch and then move on





Murphy caught up in Kolhapur however... the guy i asked to point me out to a store where i could find olympus camera batteries took me for a ride in Kolhapur from one end of the town to the other.... all sorts of stores promising me to get the batteries in a days time... and then he demanded Rs. 200 for his services... amazing and so utterly stupid of me....

By the time i ended the unsucessful search , it was almost two thirty and i was getting late... i still would be about a 100 odd kms to ratnagiri and in between lay amba ghats... skipped the famous rassa at kolhapur and had a quick chicken kolhapuri roti lunch on the outskirts of the city... the dhaba owner got over friendly and bombarded me with questions and views about my life.. can you beat it...
After a refuel and a smoke, set off on the road to ambaghat



Soon it turned all green...



Yeah all shades of it...





yeah and greener and greener and greener...





The road was great as it wound through the small hills leading to the ghats,...



the traditional warning signals before the turns... CAUTION!.. my foot.. i threw myself with vigour at every corner i could...





























but at this point i realised that whatever i had come through was only the beginning.. miles of ghat roads lay ahead of me.. begging my foot peg to scrape those tantalising corners... and boy o boy.. peg-scrape i did for the first time in my life





































right till the end... i could see bewildered faces of tourists everytime i emerged from a tight hairpin ..in the harley davidson riding jacket, gloves and helmet... they looked at this thing that emerged from the corner and shot past them just to lean back into the other one while they admired the beauty of the ghats... i was shouting to myself inside the helmet... it was exhilarating... thats the word...

After the main amba ghat there were still some smaller sections and as i wound amidst them to Ratnagiri i could not but stop getting lost in those crazy hairpins i had just negotiated.. ocassionaly stopping over for a chai break...



got into Ratnagiri, went straight towards the jetty when voila i spot a hotel just over our Bank's ratnagiri branch.. decided to check in there and have a bath before i could take a stroll towards the jetty. Put off plans of going to other places in Ratnagiri... The hotel was cheap with 400 bucks for cozy single bed room...





The ratnagiri jetty is a nice place for an evening stroll.. extending right into the sea.. even caught a father son or uncle nephew duo fishing right at the end...













Turned back to the Hotel as darkness fell but not before a Vadapav and chai...
Back in the small one bed room, ordered some pomfret, some roti and some beer... that and the pictures of the day which i could not capture on my stupid but now vital phone camera lulled me to sleep....





Day 2 - August 16
independance day on this ride was to exhilaration and adrenaline what today would be to adventure
Set out early in the morning for i knew not how much of a detour i would be making... i would be taking the coastal route, trying to never leave the sea for long till as far as i could and then hit goa highway to a tiring traffic laden journey home.. but not before 350 kms of adventure...







The Yotel and the Branch



The road towards Ganapatiphule hemmed the coastline as i ran from beach to beach across ridges jutting well out into the sea...







From Aarey Waarey - two beaches separates by a ridge to bhatye to bhandarpule to ganapatiphule.. it was miles and miles of uninhabited white sands and blue water...

















And finally my self, got a hitchhiker here, some kind of quack doctor... on his way to a near by village...







Yes, Santosh, The Quack doctor.







THe Pristing Bhatye Beach



THrough the dungeons... :D

Bhandar pule and finally...

Ganpatiphule.... doesnt look so from here but it was very crowded...

decided to stop over at the Ganapatiphule MTDC resort for breakfast... while at it, debated the short trip to Jaigad and then decided against it.. rode on towards the next destination.. the Rai Bhatgaon bridge through internal roads.. most of them as per my research district roads...



view from Ganapatiphule from outside the town....

enroute to rai... needed to find the chafe rai road...





The chafe rai road and markers confirming i as still on the right road.. the roads here ranged from bad to worse to ok... but the sights were amazing... almost no vehicles or mankind around except the occassional villages and the tomtoms carrying luggage and equally packed villagers...



there were the occassional stops where the road forked into two and i did not know which way to go..lit up and waited for the occassional passerby to guide me to the right road....

until i spotted the bhatgaon creek and finally...











the Rai bhatgaon bridge.. it was a photo of this place that led to the whole plan... amazing place.. a bridge in the middle of nowhere over this creek crossing into the Guhagar district from the ratnagiri district... there was not a soul around, the sky was partly clouded with the occassional glimpse of hte sun and there was me and my steed..



post the bridge the road divided into two and inspite of waiting for quite sometime found no one to ask the right route... with gut feeling and a vague sense of direction of Hedvi from this place, i took the one to the left and continued on.. found a passerby in between who confirmed that this road did lead to hedvi but after quite some rights and lefts at junctions in between... invariably i was bound to loose my way at some of them,... and then after a while would trace back to the junction to take the other fork... rain was intermittent in between and my jeans kept getting wet and then again drying up ... road quality was as district roads can be expected to be and was making bad work of my back... twists and turns in the vast coastal plains and undulations finally brought me to the Hedvi temple...



The only thing i was sure of now was the next destination... velneshwar...

sea views again... a nice temple and a beach.. pristine and devoid of the tourist crowd....










I was feeling like taking a dive now... but i knew i was making average time on these raods and there was still a lot more to go and lot more to see... After a chai and a smoke, set off towards guhagar, joined the Chiplun guhagar state highway.. the nicest road since three hours and sped off to Guhagar... The guhagar beach is equally blissful... had just so much time to savour the entire stretch, click a few and then off.. if the picture were a little more high resolution you could spot anjanvel in it - the shore point of Bombay high and also the pipeline extending into the sea.... now towards the dhopave jetty..














the road was broken all along and my back took a bad beating along this stretch though not more than 50 kms... the only place you could ride on this road were the fringes where there was gravel ... i was panting when i reached the jetty... took a ticket.. sat on a stump and watched the ferry chug in...





theres the bharti and ABG shipyard in the distance... and dabhol on the other side...



the ferry.. and the crowd alighting...

loaded the bike on the ferry, chatted with a friendly chap with his son.. he kept making a hero out of me to his son...

the other side greeted me to wonderful no-roads sections which did not aid my mental and physical condition by now.. the adventure was turning more difficult now and the thoughts of sticking to the sea shore till bankot and further on by ferry again were leaving me slowly...

the road got better on sometime later and as i sped on towards dapoli, i knew this was the end to the coastal roads...

Lunch at Dapoli at around 2:30 and i was decided to catch the Goa highway at the earliest to Mumbai... i was dying for some good roads... so when somebody told me that the road towards mandangad was shorter but quite bad, i opted for the exit from Khed.... the road from here on was too good and from khed onto kashedi ghats were exciting.. this was the first time i was doing these ghats...
A stopover on the other side of the ghats to let the traffic pass over so that i could lean into the corners and there i was at poladpur.. from thereon i rode recklessly onto mumbai via panvel... the only things egging me further were the thought of mumbai and a brand new BMW sedan who i was successfully trying to keep up with on the highway...
There can be no fitting conclusion to this ride or this report so just signing off...